Gypsies

                Food in Russia is possibly the best thing ever. Not only do they have nutella blini, easily available vinigret, and cheap caviar, but they have sushi. Ridiculously good and extremely cheap sushi. Virginia and I were craving sushi for lunch, so we walked around Nevsky, finding only somewhat expensive restaurants. We finally turned onto a side street by the Kazan Cathedral, and probably walked no more than a hundred feet before we found another sushi restaurant, that offered a business lunch for 350 rubles (about $12).  This included seventeen pieces of sushi, miso soup, and an entire pot of tea. It was also amazing. The only comparison I can make is the $30 Japanese buffet I went to after my high school graduation.

Then for dinner, a large group of us went to a Chinese restaurant, because lots of people had been craving it, and wanted to see the Russian version. The food was insanely good. We ordered four dishes to share between five people, and absolutely devoured them. The waiter also spoke directly only to Jonathan, the only man amongst us – something I found very respectful, and something that would not at all happen in America. The man orders, answers questions, requests items, and is handed the bill (though we of course split it evenly). I love the chivalry of this style. You respect the male as the one in charge, while simultaneously giving deference to a woman’s delicacy, and not requiring her to do anything but sit there demurely and look pretty. But then again, I might be a little old fashioned.

Now, I need to stop sounding like my inner foodie. I also really enjoyed the Dostoevsky tour we went on. We essentially walked for a few blocks around Haymarket Square, showing just how small of an area Crime and Punishment occurs in. Our tour guide was pretty boss, too. She made us recite Raskolnikov’s route for her multiple times, count the steps from one place to another, used me as a height comparison for the level of the 1824 flood, and somehow had the code to get into the hotel complex where Raskolnikov murdered the pawnbroker (who is she bribing?). And of course, the apartments had a cat, who followed us around and protested quite loudly when we left. This is turning into a very strong theme in this country.

On Haymarket Square, I also had my first real encounter with gypsies. There really were none to be seen in Moscow, perhaps largely because we stayed on main streets in tourist areas, and never ventured into the seedy areas of the city. Also, a few years ago when Bush visited Moscow, the government evacuated all of the gypsies from the city (literally – they put them on a train to Siberia). Many likely never returned, and also, it’s much easier to keep them out once they’re gone. They are in Petersburg, however, in full force. This is partially because Haymarket Square is (and always has been – thus why Dostoevsky made Raskolnikov live there) a somewhat sketchy part of town. One walked up to my friend with her baby to beg. I have been warned about them several times, but it was still very touching. After that, I saw at least three more mother-baby begging teams. It is very sad how much of a ploy this is. They are a dehumanized portion of society, but I still find the concept of them bizarre – twenty first century nomads who make their living through robbery, lies, and begging. I have no idea why (or how) this is viable in modern times. Would someone with a better understanding of historical European culture care to explain?