Peredelkino and Conceptualism

                We went to Peredelkino (the old Soviet writers' colony) on a suburban train, which was severely more stressful than I had imagined it would be. At first it just seemed fun, trekking along the side of the road to Pasternak’s house. Continuing the touring after that, however, instead of just strolling around and perhaps searching for a cute café, was not wisest decision. I’m pretty sure we walked at least five miles today, considering the fact that we left Vykhino at 10 am and returned around 6 pm. It was fun seeing some of that stuff, but the trip was much longer than it should have been. The best redeeming factors by the end were the beautiful walk back to the train station, and the surprise visit to the residence of the Patriarch. Walking through the forests, over a stream and a bridge, and seeing all of the wild flowers really made me feel as though I had been transported out of the twenty first century. It was otherworldly – all of the greenery seemed to nearly swallow us, leaning in and forming a cove. As humans, we were severely out classed. I also loved stopping to look at the patriarchal cathedral. I am accustomed to hearing the name of “our lord, the most holy Patriarch Kirill, hierarch of Moscow and All Russia” commemorated (and we’re going to assume I quoted that correctly). I am not, however, accustomed to standing approximately twenty yards from his home church. It very much solidified the hierarchy in my mind, I think. The patriarch is much less abstract now- he was there.

                Another highlight of our very extended day trip was talking with Dima, our college aged tour guide. He climbs to the roofs of ridiculously tall buildings as a hobby, has traveled all over Europe and Russia, speaks three languages, is really knowledgeable about architecture, and loves both The Master and Margarita and Moskva-Petushki. He also described in detail for me the church of St. Sergius Lavra (widely considered one of the holiest locations in Russia). He was just a really fun guy to talk to, and I’m glad we got to meet another real Russian who happens to be college age, and ridiculously fun and intelligent.

                Finally, I feel like I would have appreciated the talk with the conceptualist artist Zhenya much more if I had not been so exhausted. She seemed to be saying some very interesting things that I was not fully processing. I did note, however, the heavy emphasis she seemed to place on the personal meaning of a work to the artist, taken in a vacuum. She seemed to be very in favor of the absolute value of art, regardless of its cultural implications and moral or ethical offenses. I am not sure that I can fully support arresting the artist for violation of the censorship laws (which I was unaware still existed in such a severe form), but public, governmental, institutional, or private censorship (whichever form is the most prevalent) have their place in regulating art that does not reflect the ideas within society. It brings to mind the recent controversy in America over the exhibition of a Crucifixion scene with urine on it. It was quickly removed for sensibility’s sake, which I find entirely appropriate. Large (and very vocal) sections of the public found the art distasteful. As we’ve discussed, the Russians generally favor strong government. So if the government finds it distasteful here, can’t the art be taken down? It makes much more sense to me. Again, I don’t support arresting the artist. That’s possibly going a little too far. I do, however, question this radical movement toward absolute artistic freedom. That sounds entirely too chaotic to me – can we not simply have balance?